Alendor fuse German and French elements to launch a trio of masculine-marketed scents.
Alendor are clearly going for a specific vibe with their line. Sleek black bottles and an East meets West fusion has resulted in a brand identity which, whilst it doesn’t feel entirely unique, is definitely positioned to maximise appeal across a wide variety of markets. The feel is aimed at lux, but a couple of the details don’t quite hit that in the presentation, for example the labels don’t look or feel as luxurious as we might have hoped, and the bottle we were sent by the brand, the cap is loose and doesn’t fit the neck properly – it’s a nice heavy cap, but it doesn’t feel snug. However, these are trifles, and as always it should be the scents that do the majority of the talking. Silence and Wild Night from the brand have gold caps and coloured bottles, whereas Taboo has a black bottle and a black cap.
The fact that the first trio of scents launched by Alendor are all masculine-marketed fragrances also feels a touch out of step with the rest of the niche market which increasingly embraces gender inclusivity. Of course should you enjoy these fragrances, do feel free to wear them regardless of your gender.
There’s something a little bit 1980s about the Alendor brand. It might be the shiny bottles with their gold labels (and sometimes gold caps), or it might be the flashy names “Wild Night” and “Taboo” for example which feel like they hark back to those days of Wolf of Wall Street excesses. There’s a definite feel of hedonism and abandon threaded through the line which gives them that “classy party” feel. Whether or not there is a seedy undertone to that is probably more reflective of the wearer than anything we can read into the brand itself!
The founder of the line is from Russia, now living in Germany, and she has worked with renowned perfumer Natalie Feisthauer to develop the collection. You can find out more about the brand on their about page.
Cutting through the minor issues with presentation and branding (which are perhaps even more subjective than the scents themselves) we find three very wearable and approachable scents in the line. The fragrances are all quite weighty and full-bodied, giving that richness and sense of punch that we may expect from a brand which aims to meld Eastern and Western perfumery traditions. That said, they all boast relatively friendly dispositions and wearability – again, perhaps aiming to give them that global appeal.
Listed notes: Grapefruit, wormwood, cardamom, blackcurrant, oakmoss, benzoin.
Taboo has an interesting sourness about it from both the grapefruit, the blackcurrant, and the way that these two elements end up playing together. Despite that, it doesn’t feel overly fruity – the scent manages to retain a sense of dry-ish gravitas throughout. Once Taboo has settled on the skin and fully got into its stride, it has the texture of mildly dampened sawdust made from a hard wood like teak perhaps. Clearly the cardamom is playing a strong role here, but it only has touches of some of those green facets we sometimes find in this spice.
Taboo has a crispness about it, despite not containing many elements that we would usually associate with a crisp scent. It doesn’t exactly feel “clean” but rather precise, perhaps, and put together. Rather than it being a dark and dangerous scent, Taboo feels like something which would be ideal to wear to the office as it has that sharpness but it isn’t offensive or overbearing. If you like that tangy tingle that grapefruit does to the back of your mouth then you may well enjoy Taboo.
Listed notes: Black pepper, bergamot, cedar, tonka bean, musk.
Silence takes the dryness of Taboo and turns it up a notch. This is a big, spicy, black pepper opening raised up on the citrusy lift of bergamot. Once it settles, it becomes softer with the woods and musks taking that opening down a notch but retaining a woody brightness.
Again, we come back to the slightly 1980s vibe of the whole offer here. There is something vaguely reminiscent of the ’80s in the composition, particularly in the opening. One can imagine someone putting this scent on to go work in the city in that sort of era.
The name of Silence, and indeed of all the fragrances in the line, feels a touch incongruous. This isn’t a scent which calls to mind peacefulness, or silence. The black pepper almost gives it too much movement for that.
Of the three scents, Silence feels like the one which is least developed and most difficult to understand. Black pepper is such a ubiquitous and classic note, however, that it is certain that the fragrance will find its market.
Listed notes: Calamus, geranium, tobacco, tonka bean, mate, vetiver.
Wild Night opens with a lovely sense warmth. The richness of the tobacco is accented with flecks of floral tones but you wouldn’t go so far as to say that this is a floral scent. The geranium stops the composition from being too sweet and seems to almost tie the first half of the scent together.
There’s complexity in Wild Night which hints at sweetness, woodiness, a gentle powderiness even, but the fragrance doesn’t veer too much in any one direction. The result is something which is both wearable and interesting, and which would be appropriate for a night out.
The nostalgic twist in Wild Night comes in the form of a slightly homely “tea” feel. It could be the mate, it could be a combination of other things, but there is something cosy about it that calls to mind the cup of tea you might have at 2am after the wild night out!
Natalie Feisthauer is the perfumer behind all Alendor’s scents and she has created three fragrances which are easy to wear and unlikely to offend anyone. Wild Night is the standout of the three and it seems to be more of a chameleon than the other two – it has a compelling nature and a seductiveness which we can see taking it from boardroom to dance floor nicely. It also doesn’t over do anything, giving just enough but not too much.
Taboo is sharp, Silence is spicy and both are easy to wear. They might be too easy to wear, perhaps, but only consumers can decide that. They’re affable, easy, and would be scents that could form a workhorse fragrance in a collection, but are they distinct enough? Wild Night definitely is, but we will keep an open mind on the other two.
The Alendor fragrances are all available from their web boutique where they are priced at €149 for 100ml.
We were kindly gifted samples of the fragrances and a full bottle of Taboo by the brand.